The Rameshwaram Cafe

Ghee podi idli and a dosa the colour of honey, eaten at a standing table with half of Bangalore. The queue moves fast; don't let it scare you off. Order the ghee podi idli first.

Mosque Road, Frazer Town

During Ramzan, the whole road turns into a night market: smoky kebabs, haleem, and malpuas the size of plates. Go after iftar and eat as you walk. Park far away and take an auto in.

CTR (Shri Sagar), Malleshwaram

Benne masala dosa, crisp outside and soft inside, dripping with butter. Nothing else in the city comes close. Shout your order at the counter and wait for your token. Be there before 8 on a weekend.

Albert Bakery, Frazer Town

Brain puffs, mutton samosas and khova naan straight out of the oven. A Frazer Town institution for a reason. Go late afternoon when the fresh trays come out. The khova naan sells out first.

Russell Market, Shivajinagar

Kebab stalls, biryani joints and bakeries crammed around a market that's been there since 1927. Go hungry and in a group so you can try a bit of everything. Carry cash.

Gandhi Bazaar, Basavanagudi

Old Bangalore in one street: flower sellers, masala bonda from a cart, and filter coffee every fifty metres. Come in the evening and walk the whole stretch, then finish at Vidyarthi Bhavan if the queue is short.

Veena Stores, Malleshwaram

Tiny counter, huge crowd, and idlis so soft they barely hold together. You eat standing on the pavement and nobody minds. Get the idli-vada combo with extra chutney, and have the khara bath if it's on.

VV Puram Food Street (Thindi Beedi)

A whole street of vegetarian stalls packed shoulder to shoulder: thatte idli, gobi, holige, and a queue for everything. Go after 7pm when every stall is open. Don't skip the Congress bun from VB Bakery at the corner.